Main entrance gates
Start at the main entrance gates on Church Road (1). This impressive stone battlemented entrance was reconstructed in 2009 during the restoration of the gardens, and is a faithful replica of the original gateway of which several photographs survive. The original entrance was demolished in 1933, when the house was pulled down. It has long been thought that these walls, and the remodeled 19th century house, were designed by the famous architect AW Pugin, who was involved in the building of the Houses of Parliament in London. However, research indicates that it is much more likely that drawings by Pugin’s father were used by the builders. The elder Pugin worked as an artist and draughtsman, and he created a series of wonderfully detailed drawings providing details of medieval Gothic architecture and decoration which have helped many architects and builders emulate the Gothic style. With your back to the main entrance gates look to your right and you will see another smaller entrance with oak gates. These gates are original and have been carefully restored. We think they date from the early 1800s, and are over 200 years old. The gateway is made from older material; there is a date stone above the gate, MDLI (1551). Now look at the walls on either side of the two pairs of gates. These walls were probably built at the same time in the early 1800s but you will notice that they are built with different materials, and the style varies slightly too. The brick and stone walls were almost certainly built using materials from an earlier wall that was moved in the early 1800s in order to enlarge the entrance courtyard. You can see the position of the earlier wall marked in brick on the ground in front of you.
The Stable Yard
Go through the smaller gates, then turn left and you will find yourself in the old stable yard (2). The stable yard originally extended right up to the edge of Church Road but it was reduced in size in 1933 to allow easier access up St Peter’s Hill. A stone coachman’s cottage, standing where you now see the grass area and flower bed, was demolished at the same time. Looking into the stable yard you will see some garages on your right. Through the years these buildings, or their predecessors, have had several uses. In 1909, for example, they were referred to as a coach house or motor house. Before that were probably just stables, as the coach house belonging to the mansion was located in the Buckside (a small lane further down Church Road). It is thought likely that the older brick building straight in front of you, which was built about 500 years ago, was originally a laundry and a brew house. In more recent times it has been used for stabling, and it now houses the offices of GreenSpace (a charity promoting the use of public parks). Walk into the stable yard and on your left go through the covered way next to the Head Gardener’s Office. Turn right and go down three steps, keeping the brick and stone wall on your left. Don’t go through the small arch, which leads back into the entrance courtyard; carry on straight ahead. This was the tradesmen’s entrance to the house. Servants would have been out of sight of the main entrance here, able to enter the service end of the house across a brick paved courtyard.
The bank
Turn right and climb the steps to the top of the bank (3). From here you will have a good view of the site of the house above the banks of the River Thames. The footprint of the house is laid out on the ground so that you can appreciate its size and shape. Look at the interpretation boards which show you how we think the house developed over time: from a small dwelling for the Canon who presided over St Peter’s Church in medieval times, to an impressive building of some importance from Tudor times onwards. The footprint on the ground, in stone and brick, shows the outline of the house as it was in 1933, but where you see only brick, this indicates the location of earlier walls that were demolished 200 years ago when the house was extensively remodelled. The area at the top of the bank was known as the Gallery Garden. A long gallery situated on the first floor of the house led straight out into this area. The family used this as a private route, through the gate in the wall, to the church. No doubt the Canon who served the church over 800 years ago would have followed a similar route from his Rectory up the bank to the church.
The Stable Yard
Go through the smaller gates, then turn left and you will find yourself in the old stable yard (2). The stable yard originally extended right up to the edge of Church Road but it was reduced in size in 1933 to allow easier access up St Peter’s Hill. A stone coachman’s cottage, standing where you now see the grass area and flower bed, was demolished at the same time. Looking into the stable yard you will see some garages on your right. Through the years these buildings, or their predecessors, have had several uses. In 1909, for example, they were referred to as a coach house or motor house. Before that were probably just stables, as the coach house belonging to the mansion was located in the Buckside (a small lane further down Church Road). It is thought likely that the older brick building straight in front of you, which was built about 500 years ago, was originally a laundry and a brew house. In more recent times it has been used for stabling, and it now houses the offices of GreenSpace (a charity promoting the use of public parks). Walk into the stable yard and on your left go through the covered way next to the Head Gardener’s Office. Turn right and go down three steps, keeping the brick and stone wall on your left. Don’t go through the small arch, which leads back into the entrance courtyard; carry on straight ahead. This was the tradesmen’s entrance to the house. Servants would have been out of sight of the main entrance here, able to enter the service end of the house across a brick paved courtyard.
The bank
Turn right and climb the steps to the top of the bank (3). From here you will have a good view of the site of the house above the banks of the River Thames. The footprint of the house is laid out on the ground so that you can appreciate its size and shape. Look at the interpretation boards which show you how we think the house developed over time: from a small dwelling for the Canon who presided over St Peter’s Church in medieval times, to an impressive building of some importance from Tudor times onwards. The footprint on the ground, in stone and brick, shows the outline of the house as it was in 1933, but where you see only brick, this indicates the location of earlier walls that were demolished 200 years ago when the house was extensively remodelled. The area at the top of the bank was known as the Gallery Garden. A long gallery situated on the first floor of the house led straight out into this area. The family used this as a private route, through the gate in the wall, to the church. No doubt the Canon who served the church over 800 years ago would have followed a similar route from his Rectory up the bank to the church.
The bank
Turn right and climb the steps to the top of the bank (3). From here you will have a good view of the site of the house above the banks of the River Thames. The footprint of the house is laid out on the ground so that you can appreciate its size and shape. Look at the interpretation boards which show you how we think the house developed over time: from a small dwelling for the Canon who presided over St Peter’s Church in medieval times, to an impressive building of some importance from Tudor times onwards. The footprint on the ground, in stone and brick, shows the outline of the house as it was in 1933, but where you see only brick, this indicates the location of earlier walls that were demolished 200 years ago when the house was extensively remodelled. The area at the top of the bank was known as the Gallery Garden. A long gallery situated on the first floor of the house led straight out into this area. The family used this as a private route, through the gate in the wall, to the church. No doubt the Canon who served the church over 800 years ago would have followed a similar route from his Rectory up the bank to the church.
The Gallery Garden
Take some time to look through the other gate in the Gallery Garden (4). You are looking into the Kitchen Garden of the house. The area has been used for allotments since the 2nd World War, but in the past it would have had a very important role producing fruit and vegetables for the large household. On the right, looking through the gate, a wall divides the Kitchen Garden from the higher churchyard. This wall is known as the ‘crinkle-crankle wall’ (although strictly it is a series of bays and butresses, a true crinkle-crankle wall is a sinuous shape). The wall is thought to date from the 16th century, but there is evidence that it has been increased in height over the years, probably as the ground level of the churchyard was increased to allow for more burials! The bays in the walls make the wall much stronger, and they also encourage the early ripening of fruit planted against the wall, as the curved shape helps retain the sun’s heat in the bricks.
The Church
If you would like to follow the extended route around the garden (5) and see the western boundary wall go through the churchyard gate and turn left passing the church on your right. (You may want to visit the church while passing. If you do, don’t forget to look at the bowl of the font which dates from Norman times. It was discovered in the gardens some years ago. Near the altar, on the right high up on the wall, you will see a memorial to the Loveday family who lived at the house about 300 years ago, and on the left against the wall is an old black windvane dated 1663, which is reputed to have come from the gazebo in the gardens.)
The bank
Turn right and climb the steps to the top of the bank (3). From here you will have a good view of the site of the house above the banks of the River Thames. The footprint of the house is laid out on the ground so that you can appreciate its size and shape. Look at the interpretation boards which show you how we think the house developed over time: from a small dwelling for the Canon who presided over St Peter’s Church in medieval times, to an impressive building of some importance from Tudor times onwards. The footprint on the ground, in stone and brick, shows the outline of the house as it was in 1933, but where you see only brick, this indicates the location of earlier walls that were demolished 200 years ago when the house was extensively remodelled. The area at the top of the bank was known as the Gallery Garden. A long gallery situated on the first floor of the house led straight out into this area. The family used this as a private route, through the gate in the wall, to the church. No doubt the Canon who served the church over 800 years ago would have followed a similar route from his Rectory up the bank to the church.
The Gallery Garden
Take some time to look through the other gate in the Gallery Garden (4). You are looking into the Kitchen Garden of the house. The area has been used for allotments since the 2nd World War, but in the past it would have had a very important role producing fruit and vegetables for the large household. On the right, looking through the gate, a wall divides the Kitchen Garden from the higher churchyard. This wall is known as the ‘crinkle-crankle wall’ (although strictly it is a series of bays and butresses, a true crinkle-crankle wall is a sinuous shape). The wall is thought to date from the 16th century, but there is evidence that it has been increased in height over the years, probably as the ground level of the churchyard was increased to allow for more burials! The bays in the walls make the wall much stronger, and they also encourage the early ripening of fruit planted against the wall, as the curved shape helps retain the sun’s heat in the bricks.
The Church
If you would like to follow the extended route around the garden (5) and see the western boundary wall go through the churchyard gate and turn left passing the church on your right. (You may want to visit the church while passing. If you do, don’t forget to look at the bowl of the font which dates from Norman times. It was discovered in the gardens some years ago. Near the altar, on the right high up on the wall, you will see a memorial to the Loveday family who lived at the house about 300 years ago, and on the left against the wall is an old black windvane dated 1663, which is reputed to have come from the gazebo in the gardens.)
The Western Boundary Wall
If you would like to follow the extended route around the garden (5) and see the western boundary wall go through the churchyard gate and turn left passing the church on your right. (You may want to visit the church while passing. If you do, don’t forget to look at the bowl of the font which dates from Norman times. It was discovered in the gardens some years ago. Near the altar, on the right high up on the wall, you will see a memorial to the Loveday family who lived at the house about 300 years ago, and on the left against the wall is an old black windvane dated 1663, which is reputed to have come from the gazebo in the gardens.)
The Church
If you would like to follow the extended route around the garden (5) and see the western boundary wall go through the churchyard gate and turn left passing the church on your right. (You may want to visit the church while passing. If you do, don’t forget to look at the bowl of the font which dates from Norman times. It was discovered in the gardens some years ago. Near the altar, on the right high up on the wall, you will see a memorial to the Loveday family who lived at the house about 300 years ago, and on the left against the wall is an old black windvane dated 1663, which is reputed to have come from the gazebo in the gardens.)
The Church
If you would like to follow the extended route around the garden (5) and see the western boundary wall go through the churchyard gate and turn left passing the church on your right. (You may want to visit the church while passing. If you do, don’t forget to look at the bowl of the font which dates from Norman times. It was discovered in the gardens some years ago. Near the altar, on the right high up on the wall, you will see a memorial to the Loveday family who lived at the house about 300 years ago, and on the left against the wall is an old black windvane dated 1663, which is reputed to have come from the gazebo in the gardens.)
The Western Boundary Wall
If you would like to follow the extended route around the garden (5) and see the western boundary wall go through the churchyard gate and turn left passing the church on your right. (You may want to visit the church while passing. If you do, don’t forget to look at the bowl of the font which dates from Norman times. It was discovered in the gardens some years ago. Near the altar, on the right high up on the wall, you will see a memorial to the Loveday family who lived at the house about 300 years ago, and on the left against the wall is an old black windvane dated 1663, which is reputed to have come from the gazebo in the gardens.)
The Western Gardens (?tGallery Garden?)
When you reach the road turn left and walk down the hill. After 50 metres you will see a sloping path leading into the Victorian productive gardens, known as the Western Gardens. Walk a few metres past the gate to get a good view of the Western boundary wall (6). This wall dates from about 1820 but it was extended in height in about 1880 when glasshouses were built on the other side of the wall. The glasshouses were used for growing peaches and the walls were heated with hot air that travelled up hill from the Stoke House (boiler house) lower down the garden. Look carefully and you can see the remains of the terracotta flues at the top of the buttresses and the terracotta pipes at the sides of each buttress at about waist height. The heated walls provided enough warmth to ensure the peaches were protected from frost.
Site of the old Palm House
A little further down the hill (7) the wall rises in height for a short distance. This marks the location of the former Palm House on the other side of the wall. Fragments of stone on the inside of the wall suggest that rockwork provided a decorative back-drop to the interior of the Palm House. The Western Gardens originally extended right down to the banks of the Thames but the lower part of this end of the garden now houses the Reading Canoe Club. Now retrace your steps to the garden past the church.
Outline of the house
From the Gallery Garden go down the steps and through the
arch in the wall on your right. Follow the path to the main
entrance of the house (8). You can now walk around ‘the house’
and imagine what it would have been like living there. In each
room you will find a plaque on the ground that indicates the use
of the room, and in the central courtyard a floor plaque shows a
plan of the house. From the entrance hall walk around the house
in an clockwise direction to experience first the grander family
reception rooms followed later by the servants’ quarters.
The Long Walk
Leave the house via the main entrance and take the path on your
right behind the box hedge. Continue to the end of the box
hedge, turn right and walk along the Long Walk (9). On your left
you will see the lawns that were formerly used for croquet and
tennis by the occupants of the house. On your right you will pass
the old yew hedge that is over 250 years old. The hedge forms the
southern boundary to the Kitchen Garden. If you look over the low
wall on your left you will see the first of two long flower borders
in the garden. This first border, the East Border contains lots of
colourful plants and foliage that the Victorian family would have
enjoyed, about 150 years ago. This border is not an historic recreation;
we have used modern varieties of plants that grow well
and provide lots of interest.
The Long Walk
Leave the house via the main entrance and take the path on your
right behind the box hedge. Continue to the end of the box
hedge, turn right and walk along the Long Walk (9). On your left
you will see the lawns that were formerly used for croquet and
tennis by the occupants of the house. On your right you will pass
the old yew hedge that is over 250 years old. The hedge forms the
southern boundary to the Kitchen Garden. If you look over the low
wall on your left you will see the first of two long flower borders
in the garden. This first border, the East Border contains lots of
colourful plants and foliage that the Victorian family would have
enjoyed, about 150 years ago. This border is not an historic recreation;
we have used modern varieties of plants that grow well
and provide lots of interest.
The Stone Griffins
At the end of this border you will come to the two stone griffins on their plinths (10). The left hand griffin has been carved recently, as the original was missing, but the right hand griffin is original, although worn through age and weathering. On both stone plinths, lower down, there are ‘cat-like’ masks which are thought to be over 900 years old. Much of the worked stone is old enough to have originated from Reading Abbey when it was demolished during the Reformation over 500 years ago. Look through the gates opposite the griffins to enjoy a good view of the crinkle-crankle wall. It is thought that rainwater from the church roof was used to irrigate the Kitchen Garden in the past. Today, we recycle rainwater - from the roof of the stable block - which is stored in a huge tank buried in the Kitchen Garden. Continue along the Long Walk, and remember to look over the low wall again, you are now above the West Border which has been planted with clipped hedges and topiary that was common in gardens about 300-400 years ago.
The timeline
At the end of the Long Walk turn left onto the raised Causeway (11) which leads to the first floor of the Gazebo. On the ground you will find the timeline which records the names of known residents of the house from Medieval times until the 1930s, when the house was demolished. The timeline also records important British historical dates over the last 2,000 years. It is interesting to look to see what was happening nationally when different famillies lived here.
The Gazebo
The gazebo (12) is thought to date from the early 1600s. ‘Gazebo’ means a place to gaze at the view. The first floor of the gazebo was intended to give far reaching views up and down the Thames. Throughout its history it has been referred to as both a summerhouse and tearoom; both names giving an insight into its use over the years. In the gazebo, interpretation boards tell the story of the key people and interesting events connected with the house and gardens. Retrace your steps along the causeway. If you look to your left, the causeway gives a good view into the Western Gardens, the site of a magnificent range of glasshouses in Victorian times. New pleached (trained) limes along this side of the causeway mark the location of a former line of lime trees thought to have been planted by John Loveday over 250 years ago.
The Causeway
At the end of the causeway turn right and proceed down the steps (13). Follow the path down hill, but stop to admire the very old veteran yew tree on the left. This tree is known as the ‘Family Yew’ as low branches have rooted around the mother trunk and have produced new smaller trees – the children.
The Causeway
At the end of the causeway turn right and proceed down the steps (13). Follow the path down hill, but stop to admire the very old veteran yew tree on the left. This tree is known as the ‘Family Yew’ as low branches have rooted around the mother trunk and have produced new smaller trees – the children.
The Family Yew
As the path turns to the left stop and look through the gazebo gates (14). This is the route the family would have taken to admire the productive gardens and their glasshouses. Before parts of the estate were sold off, this route was also used for walks along The Warren beyond the gardens when The Warren was part of the original estate. The Reading Canoe Club now blocks this route, but we have created a small ‘Secret Garden’ beyond the gazebo to provide a pleasant view. Below the gazebo there was a boathouse. A short length of wall markes its location. Enjoying the river by boat was an important recreational activity for occupants of the house since at least the 18th century. Diaries record that many pleasurable hours were spent on the river! Caversham Court was also the location of the finishing line for the Reading & Caversham Regatta in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
The River
Below the gazebo there was a boathouse. A short length of wall markes its location. Enjoying the river by boat was an important recreational activity for occupants of the house since at least the 18th century. Diaries record that many pleasurable hours were spent on the river! Caversham Court was also the location of the finishing line for the Reading & Caversham Regatta in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
The Lower Terrace
Continue along the path which leads downhill towards the river.
This lower Riverside Walk probably did not exist before the 19th
Century. The lower terrace (15) was then a fairly marshy area
overgrown with native waterside trees like alder and willow.
Diaries in the 18th Century mention a thick ‘hedge’ blocking out
the view to the river. In 19th Century photographs, a path is
shown along the tops of the bank above the Riverside Walk, but it
is recorded that fine lawns swept down to the river. However, in
early 20th Century photographs, this area again appears fairly
overgrown. When the gardens were opened to the public in the
1930s, Lombardy poplars were planted along the river bank, and
grass again allowed easy access to the bank. The poplars were
felled in the 1980s, and the majority of the trees that you see
today are self-seeded ash and sycamore, and some yews, apart
from the new pin oaks that will eventually form magnificent trees
to grace this area of the gardens. Most of the fine trees on the
main lawn were planted in the 19th century.
The Lower Terrace
Continue along the path which leads downhill towards the river. This lower Riverside Walk probably did not exist before the 19th Century. The lower terrace (15) was then a fairly marshy area overgrown with native waterside trees like alder and willow. Diaries in the 18th Century mention a thick ‘hedge’ blocking out the view to the river. In 19th Century photographs, a path is shown along the tops of the bank above the Riverside Walk, but it is recorded that fine lawns swept down to the river. However, in early 20th Century photographs, this area again appears fairly overgrown. When the gardens were opened to the public in the 1930s, Lombardy poplars were planted along the river bank, and grass again allowed easy access to the bank. The poplars were felled in the 1980s, and the majority of the trees that you see today are self-seeded ash and sycamore, and some yews, apart from the new pin oaks that will eventually form magnificent trees to grace this area of the gardens. Most of the fine trees on the main lawn were planted in the 19th century.
Tea kiosk
The Riverside Walk will eventually lead you to the only 20th Century building within the gardens. The Arts and Crafts-style Tea Kiosk (16) was originally built as a toilet block in 1934, for the newly opened public gardens. The building is thought to have been constructed from materials from the demolished house. Have a look at the walls, you should be able to find tiles, stone, and also bricks of at least two sizes – the smaller bricks are probably over 400 years old, while the larger bricks are probably only 100-200 years old. Local charities now sell refreshments from the tea kiosk overlooking the river, while toilets are located at the other end of the building.
Middle Terrace Lawn
The lawn in front of you (17), on the middle terrace, was overlooked by the main reception rooms of the house. In Edwardian times the lawn was edged with decorative ivy swags on the southern side – ivy was grown up posts, and along ropes joining the line of posts. Beyond the central open lawn the fine specimen trees provide interest and shade. Walk towards the Vinery that is backed by
The Vinery
Walk towards the Vinery that is backed by a high wall beyond the Kiosk (18). A metal frame now re-creates the major part of the former glasshouse frame. Enter the Vinery near the pond.
The Vaults
Follow the steps and path down to the underground vaults (19). You will find lots more interesting information about the gardens over the last 300 years inside the vaults. When you leave the Vinery either turn left and proceed up the ramp at the far end of the Vinery, or turn right and climb the steps. Either route will take you up to the Long Walk, which leads you back to the House Footprint and Mulberry Court next to the Entrance Gates.
The Vinery
Walk towards the Vinery that is backed by a high wall beyond the Kiosk (18). A metal frame now re-creates the major part of the former glasshouse frame. Enter the Vinery near the pond.
The Vaults
Follow the steps and path down to the underground vaults (19). You will find lots more interesting information about the gardens over the last 300 years inside the vaults. When you leave the Vinery either turn left and proceed up the ramp at the far end of the Vinery, or turn right and climb the steps. Either route will take you up to the Long Walk, which leads you back to the House Footprint and Mulberry Court next to the Entrance Gates.